Normally the action at Paris fashion shows is
provided by the models — but at Kenzo’s event Sunday, towering monoliths
danced a technical ballet that literally overshadowed the collection on the
catwalk.
Seven giant two-storey-high blocks moved around on hidden wheels,
apparently guided by computers, in a vast industrial hall in northwest Paris
as the brand’s collection paraded around them.
The idea was a forest — but a technological one, befitting the 21st
century and Kenzo’s autumn collection featuring mostly dark colours offset
with lateral or diagonal stripes and complex floral prints.
“We wanted the women to feel like they were dancing with these trees in
this forest,” said Humberto Leon, co-designer with Carol Lim.
“We wanted to give the season an interpretation that was ours. So we almost
wanted to sum up this amazing imagery that the house owns and kind of show it
in a way that we think is 2015,” he said.
The overall impression of the collection was of ethnic modernity, a little
bit masculine, with touches of Peruvian and Japanese traditional dress thrown
in.
Ricci’s informal elegance
Nina Ricci threw the focus of her show on Saturday squarely on the clothes:
elegant but informal, sophisticated yet simple.
Designer Guillaume Henry offered almost transparent lace dresses, and
knee-length skirts topped with t-shirts or easy flowing pants.
“Sophistication doesn’t mean decoration,” he told AFP after the show. “It’s
about handling fine materials in the same way as poorer ones, to get rid of
the barrier between day and night (wear).”
Leather at Mugler
For Mugler Saturday, sexiness was more the game, embodied by a collection
leaning heavily on leather.
Georgian designer David Koma, who took up the creative reins at the house
in late 2013, presented hide cut short and close to the body and in black,
white and marine.
Patterns looking like computer circuitry highlighted the theme of
“artificial intelligence”, but some of the openings on the dresses revealing
the skin suggested a more carnal undercurrent. (AFP)
Photos: Vogue.co.uk
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