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Jakob Schubert ripete El bon combat, la super via di Chris Sharma a Cova de Ocell

Posted on August 15, 2019

Il climber austriaco Jakob Schubert ha effettuato la prima ripetizione di El bon combat, la super via liberata da Chris Sharma nel 2015 a Cova de Ocell in Spagna.

Come da tradizione, dopo la stagione agonistica Jakob Schubert sta trascorrendo un periodo d’arrampicata in Spagna e come nelle migliori tradizioni la climbing machine austriaca è andato a segno quasi subito, effettuando la seconda salita di El bon combat.

Si tratta della difficile via liberata nel marzo del 2015 dallo statunitense Chris Sharma nella falesia Cova de Ocell alle porte di Barcelona e ora ripetuta da Schubert che las considera "una via unica, con prese e movimenti straordinari… " Per quanto riguarda il grado, invece di 9b/+ suggerito da Sharma Schubert lo considera un 9a+, ma quello che conta soprattutto è che "la via è straordinaria."

In attesa di altre ripetizioni e conferme del grado, l’impresa sottolinea la forma in cui si trova attualmente Schubert, assoultamente smagliante e difficile da capire persino per lui stesso: quest’anno si è laureato Campione del Mondo Lead, Campione del Mondo della Combinata e ha anche vinto la Coppa del Mondo Lead 2018, mente su roccia vicino a casa in Ötztal ha liberato un 8c+ al terzo tentativo, Synergieeffekt. Inoltre, all’inizo anno nella stessa falesia Cova de Ocell aveva salito il famoso blocco 8B+ di Chris Sharma, Catalan Witness the Fitness, al primo colpo. Il viaggio in Catalogna è soltanto iniziato e promette di essere interessante.

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2nd Ascent of ‚El Bon Combat’!! One of the best routes I have ever done The one and only @chris_sharma established this amazing line in 2015. Chris actually accompanied me on my last two days at the crag and it was awesome to share the moment of the send with him, thanks a lot for the good times and huge respect for putting up just another testpiece here in Catalunya • The route is situated in Cova de l‘ocell a 45 min drive from Barcelona and I advise every strong climber to try this thing, it‘s such an unique route with amazing holds and movements and pretty suited for boulderers also More ascents would be welcomed because I would love to hear some more thoughts about the grade I know it‘s easy to not think about it and just take the grade of the first ascensionist which is 9b/9b+ in this case but I feel the responsibility to have more thoughts about it. For me it felt easier from the first day I tried it and I would guess it’s a hard 9a+. Curious what others will think • Thanks for the good vibes during this whole trip @felipe.camargo • by @cmmagalhaes With sound on you will hear me say ‚I almost fell again‘ which means the very last move where I fell the try before • #rockclimbing #catalunya #2ndascent #sopsyched #oneofthebest #leadclimbing #climbingvideo

A post shared by Jakob Schubert (@jakob.schubert) on Dec 1, 2018 at 2:17pm PST

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